Update your beauty routine with something fresh from the Spring Summer 17 Catwalks
Photo Credit: Marco de Vincenzo
- Wear Just Lipstick:
Beautifully polished skin and minimal makeup were last season’s calling cards. This spring, no-makeup makeup has been paired with a clean-cut lip. “This look is for that woman who looks chic just wearing lipstick,” says Director of Makeup Artistry at MAC Terry Barber who did just this for Marco de Vincenzo. While it might take confidence to pare back other elements, you can still work it your way, whether that’s a cherry red with an elegant, French chignon or a bright pink with loose, texturised hair.
Colour Riche Matte Addiction Lipstick in Paris Cherry (€11.99) by L'Oreal Paris
2. Choose Avant-garde Hair Accessories:
They’re hair accessories, but not as you know them. At Roksanda the low pony was made fresh by the addition of a thick black band; for an even more novel twist, belt-buckle ties were sported at Tibi. “I added a quick blast of Thickening Tonic all over, to add a little grip to hold the style,” says Aveda Guest Artist Frank Rizzieri. He then teased the base of the bunch before adding the accessory over the elastic. “New Damage Remedy Split End Repair helped give the look extra polish.”
Photo Credit: Mugler
3. Swap Ebony for Navy:
Navy polish is a good alternative to black when brighter days loom and it works well for ladies who like to wear their nails short and dark. Add a hint of sparkle, with a line of silver described by nail technician Marian Newman at Mugler as “Rock ‘n’ roll meets Star Wars”.
Super Gel in Punk Rock (€10.99) by Rimmel
Photo Credit: Unique
4. Go Matchy Matchy:
The use of harmonising colour on the face can look beautifully natural, but make it truly striking by trading neutral shades for burgundy. Max Factor Global Creative Director, Pat McGrath drew inspiration from the seventies at the Anna Sui show, creating a matching lip and eye colour. “I chose a burgundy
colour for the eyes and used the same on the lips, with a touch of gloss,” says McGrath. Max Factor Crème Puff Blush in Gorgeous Berry was used on lids and blended upwards, around and underneath the lashline. The depth of the eyes was enhanced with Colour Elixir Lip Liner in Mauve Moment under the lower lash line, and it was also used on lips.
Crème Puff Blush in Gorgeous Berries (€12.49) by Max Factor
Photo Credit: GHD for Victoria Beckham
5. Dust off your Straighteners:
Whether short, medium-length or long, pin-straight hair is oh-so cool again, thanks to Versace. Accentuate the noughties style with a middle parting to wear your locks long and curtain-like.
Photo Credit: Moschino
6. Go Heavy on Bronzer:
“Really?” we hear you ask. Yes, really. The team at MAC has us falling in love with bronzer and contouring all over again. By using bronzer to contour both eyes and cheeks, the result was a nineties supermodel vibe at both Moschino (Tom Pecheux: “Young Linda Evangelista in the early nineties.”) and Missoni (Lisa Butler: “Kate Moss in the nineties – urban and glossy.”). At Moschino, Bronzing Powder in Baiana Bronze was swept under the cheekbones to contour, while at Missoni, Cream Colour Base in three shades (Improper Copper, Mid-tone Sepia, and Root) was blended over the face to sculpt and shape. Mid-Tone Sepia was also brushed through the crease and smudged under the eye to accentuate the depth.
Photo Credit: Victoria Beckham
7. Make Blue New:
Don’t be afraid, Pat Butcher need not apply. Wear the eighties staple hue in a relaxed, smudged out wash of colour or a painterly, graphic swipe as at Victoria Beckham, which used the Fired Sapphire shade from the Eye Palette of her collection with Estée Lauder. “The makeup reflects the assured free spirit of the [collection], so the use of colour is carefree and applied in bold strokes across the eyes,” says Beckham of the look. “Overall, the look doesn’t feel too perfect or considered."
Eye Palette (€80) by Victoria Beckham X Estee Lauder
Photo Credit: Stella Jean
Swap your Topknot for a Half-up Bun:
The hair stylists at Stella Jean made this look super cool rather than cutsie by adding a texturising spray to hair. This not only gave hair a relaxed, undone appearance but also hold. Keep it looking fresh and soft, by embracing your baby hairs. Pull out extra wisps around the hairline.
Photo Credit: Zero+ Maria Cornejo
9. Use Lipstick as Blush:
Our favourite trick for a pretty flush this season is to use lipstick in place of blush. It’s the on-the-go girl’s beauty hack but it gives skin that glow you get from a walk in the fresh country air. At Zero + Maria Cornejo, Shiseido Creative Director Dick Page mixed two Rouge Rouge Lipsticks (Sweet Desire and Rose Crush) together create a warm “melted makeup” blush which was applied to the apples of the cheeks and the bridge of the nose using a blush brush.
Rouge Rouge Lipstick in RD714 Sweet Desire (€28) by Shiseido
Photo Credit: Cushnie et Ochs
10. Give your French mani a makeover:
The classic French mani has fallen out of favour, but returned triumphant at Cushnie et Ochs with sharp geometric tips. The whites were transformed into slanted stiletto shapes so that nails looked even longer and the base shade was kept nude rather than pink.
Photo Credit: Rag & Bone
11. Smudge it Out:
“Blend, blend and blend some more,” might have been the directive in seasons past but this spring one should cleanse one’s beauty aura of the search for perfection with smudging. At Rag & Bone, MAC’s
Tom Pecheux used kohl to give a late night, early morning feel that says you’re having far too much fun to care if your eyes are smudged. An insider trick: Pecheux likes to add a few wet coats of waterproof mascara to top and bottom lashes, using his fingers to gently blend the pigment in to the roots. Frame the eye with a touch of shadow and lightly smudged kohl to add definition.
Photo Credit: Mary Katrantzou
12. Pair Illuminated with Matte:
It might sound like a beauty oxymoron, but it’s deliciously modern. Take the lips at Mary Katrantzou as your lead and pair bright, luminescent skin with matte lips in a pumped up acid shade. Fill in the lips with pencil, and then apply Retro Matte Liquid Lip Colour by MAC with a lip brush for extra precision. Want your pout extra matte? At Charlotte Olympia, makeup artist for MAC Val Garland used Set Powder in Invisible pressed on top for intense hold.
Timeless Kissproof Lipstick in Brave Red (€25) by Lord & Berry
Photo Credit: Elie Saab
13. Soften your Flicks:
More subtle than a cateye flick, we’re calling this elongating take on liquid liner the kitten eye. It’s cool, soft and sexy rather than retro. At Elie Saab MAC makeup artist Tom Pecheux used the Pro Longwear Fluidline in Blacktrack and a small angled brush to draw on a half-flick around the outer corners of the eyes, which was then smoked out with eyeshadow.
Photo Credit: Prada
14. Create Clean Lines:
This groomed look is something Guido, Redken Global Director calls “the palette cleanser”. He created a deep side parting and pulled the hair back into a low ponytail emphasising the simplicity of the look with a square line on the forehead. “A side-part that has a very smooth texture looks very masculine. The simplicity of the style actually makes a statement. It looks so smart, chic and elegant.” His top tip: smooth the hair at the crown for a polished, twenties era finish.
Photo Credit: Fendi
15. Glitter for Spring: Groundbreaking!
Nothing says spring like gothic, glitter lips, right? Perhaps, if you’re brave enough. Models at DKNY sported a statement plum lip more usual for the latter end of the year, with added glitter and highlighted
accents in the centre of the mouth and cupid’s bow. Meanwhile at Fendi, Creative and Image Director of Christian Dior Makeup, Peter Philips covered lips in rose-toned glitter. Festival season isn’t too far away!
Photo Credit: Temperley London
16. Use Instant Tan Well:
If instant tan is only your go-to in emergency situations, then the festival vibe at the Temperley London show might change your mind. St Tropez Tanning and Skin Finishing Expert, Emma Kotch kissed models’ skin with a touch of bronze by buffing Instant Tan Finishing Gloss into the skin to give limbs and décolleté a shiny day-long glow that felt very Bohemian. Then Kotch used the Gloss once again to pick out parts of the body that would naturally catch the most sunlight – the shins, the tops of the arms and the collarbones – giving the tan a more bespoke look.
Photo Credit: Versace
17. Look Sporty (even if you're not):
Even if you’re not sticking to your green juices and daily work out, you can still achieve that healthy,
sporty look that’s oh-so fresh for spring. At Versace, Max Factor’s Pat McGrath played with light, illuminating the spots where it would naturally fall by dusting Wild Shadow Pot eyeshadow in Defiant
White along the cheekbones, down the bridge of the nose and in the Cupid’s bow, finally applying a
metallic silver cream in the inner corners of the eye with just a small wash of blush for a healthy
glow. The result: bright-eyed and bushy-tailed on the outside, even if you’re not feeling it on the inside.
Dessin Du Regard Arty Duo in Blanc (€21) by YSL
Photo Credit: Roberto Cavalli
18. Make your Plaits Micro:
Throwback alert! If Cavalli says micro-braids are cool, then they’re cool. Backstage, Wella Global Creative Director Eugene Souleiman, created a centreparting with a micro-plait just about visible at each side to frame the face.
Photo Credit: Carolina Herrera
19. Swap Powder for Gloss:
Have you already embraced the undone eye? Kudos to you. Now take it up a notch by switching up your eyeshadow for a gloss. At Altuzarra, Tom Pecheux applied MAC Studio Eye Gloss over black liner to create a “naughty, sweaty woman”, should that be your desired calling card. Shiny, kohl-stained lids couldn’t be easier. Simply outline your eye in a soft black eye pencil (including the waterline) and smudge slightly with a brush to diffuse. Scribble some kohl over your lids and then top with a clear gloss or even Vaseline to finish.
Gloss Volume (€34) by Chanel
Photo Credit: Blugirl
20. Orange is the New Brown:
It doesn’t immediately strike one as a universally flattering shade, but give a sunset orange eyeshadow a whirl and you’ll be very pleasantly surprised at how it works as a staple shade in your palette. At Blugirl, models’ lids were dusted with a beautifully blended wash of orange shadow, whilst nails were given a lick of tangerine polish.
La Laque Couture in Vandal Orange (€19) by YSL