The buzzy new wonder ingredient is slowly popping up everywhere – including in several new serums and moisturisers – just in time for dry skin season.
Here's what it is/does:
PGA is a component of the sticky paste found in natto, a Japanese fermented soybean dish. Unlike other cult-favourite acids like glycolic and lactic, PGA is hydrating rather than exfoliating by creating super absorbent hydrogels which swell and entrap water.
Polyglutamic acid is one of the most hydrating ingredients you can find and can serve many purposes, from boosting skin elasticity and minimising pigmentation to helping reduce the appearance of fine lines.
It also boasts incredible water retaining capabilities and is able to hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. Plus, it has brilliant skin-sealing qualities, allowing your skin to retain its moisture for much longer than usual.
Alongside its moisture-boosting properties, there’s evidence to suggest that PGA also increases skin suppleness.
“Studies show that during a 28-day period, PGA favourably improves elasticity and of the skin, more so than collagen and hyaluronic acid,” according to a 2015 report from the Microbiology Society.
How it's different from hyaluronic acid:
Hyaluronic acid (HA) has long been heralded as a hero product for its hydrating prowess, however, PGA has the ability to hold around 10 times more moisture than hyaluronic acid itself.
The key difference between polyglutamic acid and hyaluronic acid is that PGA creates a ‘film’ over the skin's surface, preventing water from evaporating. HA, however, can still be used with PGA as it is ideal for hydrating the lower levels of the skin, allowing your skin to retain its moisture on a deeper level. The two work in synergy with one another.
As PGA has a larger structure than HA, layering products in the right order is essential. Safe and suitable for day and night use, if using a separate hyaluronic acid serum, it would need to be applied before your PGA product which acts as the protective sealant.
Alternatively, reach for a product that contains both to take out any guesswork.

For those looking to indulge, products featuring PGA vary hugely in price. For beginners, we'd recommend The Inkey List's PGA (€15) or It's Skin Power 10 Formula VC Effector (€19).
Otherwise, Charlotte Tilbury's Magic Serum (€72) or Kate Somerville's DermalQuench Wrinkle Warrior (€95.50) for those looking to splurge.
Main image by @jpskincarexo
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