With trends officially declared defunct for the new season, our makeup routines – like our wardrobes – should be built on (two) old faithfuls.
After months spent at home, mostly slathered in skincare, delving into a makeup bag again could leave you struck by indecision. Masks, while a small price to pay for safety, have upended beauty routines, and considering most outings for the foreseeable will warrant concealing more than half our faces with fabric, the relevance and practicality of some of our once go-to products could well be called into question.
If you’re the kind of person who curated their look atop a signature red lip or pop of dewy highlight, don’t disavow all you know just yet. What you need is something that can refocus attention and accentuate the eyes, whilst adding a sense of polish.
It’s time to bolster your brows.
Jason Wu Spring '21
While trends in brow shape come and go, the beauty world has seen a return to more natural brows paired with simple tweaks (like fluffing them up with soap or laminating the hairs for an instantly full look). Groomed eyebrows, while nothing new, are reassuringly never going to look entirely irrelevant. Consider them the classic beauty equivalent of a Breton-striped top or perfectly tailored trousers. However, as our best brow shape was determined largely by our facial features – the majority of which are now often covered – there is an argument to be made for subtly changing the way we approach our eyebrows. The much-vaunted “boy brow”, defined by its angular shape and fluffy fullness may well have been synonymous with Cara Delevingne/Brooke Shields luxuriance, but without the natural relief and dimension provided by the corner of a jawline, the curve of a cheekbone, the tip of a nose, or a slightly more geometric brow, one with added lift, arch definition and a just-tapered tail could now look more flattering.
But don’t just take our word for it. Last month, cult brand Anastasia Beverly Hills launched “The Brow App” which employs face mapping features via custom 3D tech and augmented reality to allow users to try on illustration-like arches in varying shapes. The app is informed by founder and CEO Anastasia Soare’s patented golden ratio shaping method and it takes into consideration personal preferences such as eyebrow colour as well. Charlotte Tilbury, purveyor of “the supermodel brow” has developed a three-step system that promises to “decodify” runway-worthy brows in minutes, by simplifying the process into filling, feathering and fixing. Her Supermodel Brow Kit features a choice between the new Brow Cheat, a micro-fine pencil for filling sparse areas or the reformulated Brow Lift which is a thicker, angled pencil for carving and defining; then Legendary Brows, a tinted brow gel in newly available shades and Brow Fix, a long-lasting clear gel to fix any unruly hair into place.
Brow Freeze, €30, Anastasia Beverly Hills – SHOP
Supermodel Brow Kit, €74, Charlotte Tilbury – SHOP
True Feather Brow Gel Duo, €25, Kevyn Aucoin – SHOP
Kevyn Aucoin and his namesake brand singlehandedly spearheaded many iconic beauty trends in the nineties – the most memorable, the skinny, high-arched “power brow” worn by Kate Moss and Gwen Stefani alike. Now, the brand has released a clever marker-gel duo pen that’s ideal for creating feather-like hair strokes. On one end, the True Feather Brow Gel Duo boasts a series of sharply-trimmed synthetic fibres (rather than felt-tip) that evenly distribute a watercolour-like ink and on the other end is a conditioning gel formula to aid healthy growth. Beauty at the spring shows ran the gamut, from chromatic painterly shadow at Zero + Maria Cornejo and gothic kohl-rimmed eyes at Chloé and Dior to freshly-kissed lips at Bora Aksu and ultra-minimal no-makeup makeup at Jacquemus and Jason Wu, but common to all models was a refined arch with some natural-looking strays for softness.
Proving that with great brows as your starting point, you can take a look anywhere.
Holding image: Zero + Maria Cornejo Spring '21