Dear Derm: Which Skincare Trends Are Just Fads?

If you've ever wanted to peer inside the bathroom cabinets of the cream of the skincare crop you're in luck: Irish Tatler asked skincare woman of the moment to lift the lid on what really works. 

Some viral skin-care trends are all marketing, and no depth. 

As we've seen, popular products like peel-off masks, chemical-heavy ointments or even coconut oil can prove more harmful than good.

We asked Dublin-based skincare specialist Ciara Darcy to give us the skinny on what really works and what really doesn't.

"The worst thing you can do for your skin is to not wear an SPF every single day," she tells us. 

"Even on the days that you hide inside from the lashing rain. I'm not wearing an SPF when I'm inside I hear you say! Let me try to change your mind... your skin is affected by HEV (high energy visible) light. This light is emitted from your phone, laptop and tv," she continued. 

"Advanced SPFs will block HEV rays protecting your skin from premature ageing. SPFs also protect against free radical damage. Free radicals fight healthy skin cells! They are hail, rain or shine in the form of pollution, cigarette smoke, radiation, even chemicals used in cleaning products.

"Wearing an SPF every day creates a shield to protect your skin against them, it's the number one product to keep your skin healthy."

As for fads, dermaplaning is best avoided, according to Ciara. 

"Dermaplaning is shaving your face. I got it done to see what it was all about!

"The treatment takes about an hour where a blade is used to remove vellus (soft fluffy hairs - we all have them!) and terminal hairs (strong hair when not removed from the root grow back thicker) from all over your face and neck. Painless to be fair!

"For a couple of weeks my skin felt smoother but obviously hair grows back and if any terminal hairs have been removed they grow back thicker and stubbly," she says. 

"If you want to remove facial hair threading is your best friend – it's sore but it pulls the hair from the root so over time it will grow back finer and less often. Dermaplaning, in my opinion, is overly priced (€60 - €80) face shaving."

Ciara is also, surprisingly, very against micellar water. 

"Micellar waters – so quick, so handy. Agreed! Excellent marketing, so you are lead to believe there is nothing in there but good stuff! In reality, most micellar waters are terrible for your skin.

"A test was done on one brand's micellar water and the PH equivalent was bleach. Using micellar water daily can cause redness and dehydration. A great alternative that's as fast would be a pre-cleanse oil or balm."

You heard it here first. Edit your bathroom shelves accordingly. 

Main image by @cailinrusso

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