Backstage beauty at the Tom Ford SS19 show at New York Fashion Week

Backstage beauty at the Tom Ford SS19 show at New York Fashion WeekPhotos courtesy of BFA and Franz Walderdorf

The designer gave us a lesson in the smokey eye, 2.0 at his New York Fashion Week show.

The classic smokey eye: it's up there with the LBD, the stiletto heel and the (faux) fur coat as hallmarks of a classic kind of allure. Something NYFW designer Tom Ford knows all about – he invented sexy, right

However, Mr Ford did things a little differently this season. The goalposts were the same, but scratch the surface to find its underpinning to be a bit subversive. Yes, there was the same high-octane/after-dark glamour references but it all managed to avoid any overt sexiness. Sultry, yes; sexy, not so.

The striking yet subtle makeup look, as worn by models, was a tawny-cum-taupe lid, which was a "glamorous, yet bohemian reinvention of the Tom Ford smoky eye", paying homage to the style of 1920s Berlin. The final flourish was a stripped back, nude lip that just hinted at a flush of colour. In other words, leave the glitter at home.

(FYI, aficionados can get the look using Tom Ford Eye Color Quad in 01 Golden Mink, Tom Ford Brow Sculptor and Tom Ford Boys & Girls clutch-sized Lip Color Sheer in 29 Ava.)

In fact, the makeup was indicative of Mr Ford's new brand of sex appeal. It's vintage sexy – think a 1970s Charlie Girl rather than Charlie XCX.

As for the clothes? They were a further rejection of all things brash, choosing instead to go for a wash of gleaming snake skins, silken fringing and tonal suiting.

It was by no means tame, but there is something in the restraint that could teach the street style peacocks, swarming outside the Park Avenue Armory, a lesson or two.

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